Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu
It is a panoramic thrill flying into Kathmandu on a clear day. The views of snow-capped mountain peaks sprawling down below you are almost ecstatic, beginning a whole chain of memorable experiences that stay with you for a long, long time.
A representative and driver from our office will meet you at the airport and escort you to your hotel. The representative will help you check into your designated hotel. At the hotel you will be briefed about your daily activities.
Day 2: Kathmandu to Gorkha & Daraudi Khola
Today we set off early from Kathmandu. We travel by private bus along the Kathmandu - Pokhara highway following the Trisuli River. Soon after Mugling, we turn off this road and head towards Gorkha, the original homeland of the Gurkha soldiers.
The journey takes about 5-6 hours from Kathmandu, after sorting out our gear, we begin trekking with a short walk of 1-2 hours towards our camping spot by the Daraundi Khola.
Day 3: Daraudi Khola to Palungtar
Our first full days trekking is not difficult, crossing a number of streams and walking partly through forests and rice fields. It is important to wear a good sun hat for protection against the heat where there is no shade. Our camp at Palungtar will provide tremendous views of the Annapurna and Manaslu range of mountains.
Day 4: Palungtar to Udipur (748m)
Today we reach the Marshyandi Valley, crossing to the West bank on a suspension bridge at Tarku Ghat. Then we follow the rough dirt road for a short while which has come from Dumre. Lunch stop will be by the banks of the Naudi Khola, providing an opportunity to cool down by the riverside. We continue following the road through Bhoti Odar and on to Udipur.
Day 5: Udipur to Bhul Bhule (824m)
The trail continues Northward up the Marshyangdi Valley, with Himalchuli and Peak 29 dominating the horizon. The valley noticeably changes now to become a deep river gorge. We continue on the left bank of the Marshyangdi, stopping for lunch soon after the village of Besi Sahar, by the banks of the Pam Khola. At Bhul Bhule, we cross to the right bank of the Marshyangdi on a long suspension bridge.
Day 6: Bhul Bhule to Jagat (1343m)
Corn begins to replace rice cultivation and we pass many crashing waterfalls as the valley narrows. It is a steep climb up to Bahun danda ("Brahmin Hill"), the Northern-most Brahmin settlement in the valley. From here, the trail descends steeply through rice terraces, then in and out of side canyons before crossing the Marshyangdi on a long suspension bridge at Syange (3,725ft / 1136m).
The trail climbs high above the river on the steep West bank which is forested with rhododendrons and pine. Because of the steepness of the valley, villages in this region are infrequent, and so are suitable places to camp. Jagat is a small village with a medieval atmosphere inhabited by people of Tibetan ancestry.
Day 7: Jagat to Dharapani (1946m)
From Jagat the trail continues to climb through forests to Chyamje. Following the East bank of the Marshyangdi the trail climbs gradually before the valley suddenly opens into a large plateau at Tal (4,950ft / 1511m), the site of an ancient lake bed. We will probably stop for lunch here. Corn, barley and potatoes are grown in this area. After crossing the broad flat valley the trail climbs steeply on a stone staircase high above the river.
There are some steep ups and downs on this section, passing through forests of blue pine before descending to a suspension bridge. From here the trail climbs to a stone archway or kani, marking the entrance to Dharapani.
Day 8: Dharapani to Chame (2685m)
From Dharapani the trail passes a school and climbs over a spur before descending to Bagarchhap, the first village with typical Tibetan buildings and examples of Buddhist culture including a gompa (monastery), prayer wheels and entrance chortens (monuments) at both ends of the village. The path enters a narrow forested gorge and, looking back, we have a magnificent view of Manaslu.
As we proceed the trail continues through Temung and the hamlets of Charku and Thangla. As we continue on to Burdhan, views of the Annapurna range become more extensive, with Annapurna II, looking particularly splendid.
At Chame, the administrative headquarters of the Manang district, there are small pools along the side of the river fed by bubbling hot springs.
Day 9: Chame to Pisang (3200m)
We follow the East bank of the Marshyangdi to Brathang, where Annapurna II is directly above us. We then continue through forests to a wide valley, with dramatic Paungda Danda rock face rising more than 5,000ft from the river.
There are good views of Annapurna II, to the south and Pisang Peak to the North-East. The trail continues to Pisang, where flat roofed houses cling to the crumbling hillside.
Day 10: Pisang to Julu (3500m)
We continue along the valley trail from lower Pisang, climbing to a pass which gives extensive views up the Manang Valley. At Hongde, we leave the main trail and begin our ascent of the little visited Cheggi Khola valley. A gentle ascent through scattered chortens, scrub juniper and stunted pines takes us to the small hamlet to Julu. Sitting on the West bank of the river, ten houses with an entrance kani form this compact community.
Half the dwellings are permanently occupied, the others being a summer annex for the people of Manang. A cunning irrigation system allows a healthy collection of fruit trees to survive the arid rain shadow of the Annapurna massif.
Day 11: Julu to Yak Kharka (3750m)
From Julu, we re-cross the Cheggi Khola and climb gently up the West bank. After about an hour, we come to the valley’s final house, a seasonally occupied stone hut surrounded by apple trees.
From this point, we have a stunning view up the side valley that reaches up towards Chulu West. The valley floor is interrupted by a sheer 500ft cliff with two spectacular waterfalls pouring over its lip. The path now steepens and we wind our way through the final trees before emerging at a small meadow. Here, yak and wild mountain goats graze together and we pitch camp for the night.
This is a short day and we arrive in camp in time for a leisurely lunch and, gazing across to the now stunning views, a myriad of snow capped peaks stretch as far as the eye can see.
Day 12: Yak Kharka to Base Camp (4200m)
Another short day, allowing optimum acclimatization. Our route takes us through steep pastures to a convenient hollow, where meadow merges into rock and scree. This will be our base camp. High above, we can see the site of our high camp and looking out across the main valley, we now get to view the skyward thrust of the Annapurnas.
Day 13: Base Camp
A rest day to aid acclimatization and sort out our gear.
Days 14 to 16: Base Camp to High Camp (5000m) & Chulu East Summit
Those who are well acclimatized, move up to our high camp, sitting at the top of the terminal moraine of the Chulu glacier. It is a stiff pull up scree and snow slopes, but we arrive to have plenty of time to relax, prepare equipment and strategies for the next day.
Our objective dominates the scene and demands our attention again and again. Porters will carry food, tents and equipment up to high camp and return to base camp. Two days have been set aside for the climb of Chulu East (20,305ft / 6200m).
A dawn start across the glacier takes us across to the snow and ice slopes that guard the flanks of the South ridge. We tackle these by a direct line up the west side to arrive on the spectacular summit ridge at a small subsidiary summit.
The ridge is exposed but not technical and in every direction new peaks crowd our horizon as we gain height. Eventually, we run out of mountain at a small snow dome with steep slopes falling away on all sides. Our high camp has diminished to toy-town stature; it truly feels like the roof of the world. After savoring our precious and hard won summit experience, we descend, possibly using ropes on the steepest sections, to congratulations and copious supplies of tea at high camp. Rested and supremely fulfilled, the descent to base camp passes quickly.
For those not attempting the climb of Chulu East, the walk to Base Camp will provide spectacular views over the Annapurnas, more outstanding than what we would have seen if only following the normal Annapurna route.
Our camps will be in superb locations, there is time to explore the area and possibly get up to high camp. This diversion will help enormously with the acclimatization process, in preparation for the crossing of Thorung La.
Day 17: Base Camp to Manang (3511m)
We return to the main trail and head towards Manang via Bragga. We have excellent views of the Annapurna II, III and IV, Gangapurna and Glacier Dome, and the huge ice-fall descending from the Northern slopes of Gangapurna is quite spectacular. Manang is a fascinating medieval village of just over 500 flat-roofed houses, whose entrances are reached from the narrow alleyways by ascending a steep log, notched with steps.
Day 18: Manang to Phedi - Thorung Base Camp (4427m)
Looking back as we climb out of the Marshyangdi valley we have tremendous views of Manaslu, the Annapurnas, Tilicho Peak and the Great Barrier. We head North-West up the Jarsang Khola, through scrub juniper and alpine grasses to arrive at Leder for lunch.
From Leder, we continue on the East bank of the Jarsang Khola, before crossing on a covered bridge. The trail climbs on scree slopes high above the river to Phedi, a single stone building set among near vertical cliffs.
Day 19: Phedi to Muktinath (3694 m)
Today, we start early from Phedi. The trail becomes steep immediately on leaving camp. As this trail has been used by local people for hundreds of years, the path is well defined. After a while, the gradient eases and it is a steady walk to the Chorten and cairns of the Thorung pass at 17,770ft, which we reach in about 4 hours.
The views from here are dramatic. Stretching below are the head of the Kali Gandaki valley and the brown / purple hills of Mustang leading to Tibet. Across the valley is the Tibetan marginal range of mountains and on either side are the pass tower twin 21,270ft peaks. The trail to Muktinath is steep and long 5,000ft of knee jerking descent.
Day 20: Muktinath to Marpha (2665m)
We now begin the descent down the dramatic Kali Gandaki valley, initially through arid country in the same geographical and climatic zone as Tibet. After passing through Jharkot and Khingar, villages with typical Tibetan architecture, we follow the valley floor most of the way to Jomsom, passing beneath vertical rock cliffs.
Jomsom sprawls along both banks of the Kali Gandaki and from here we get fine views of the Nilgiri peaks. Still following the river valley we arrive at Marpha, a delightful Thakali village, complete with a fascinating drainage system beneath the flagstone streets. Marpha is particularly well known for its apples, apple cider and rakshi (fermented spirit).
Day 21: Marpha to Lete (2470m)
We continue descending the Kali Gandaki to Tukche, another important Thakali village. From Tukche, we follow the West bank of the Kali Gandaki to Larjung. Here, narrow alleyways and tunnels connect houses with enclosed courtyards, providing protection against the winds blowing up the valley.
We climb through pine, juniper and cypress forests, crossing the river twice before reaching Kalopani, with fine views of Annapurna I (26,545ft) and the Fang (25,043ft). Twenty minutes beyond Kalapani lies Lete, from here the trail branches off to the base camp used by Herzog's first ascent of Annapurna.
Day 22: Lete to Tatopani (1160m)
Our trail descends steeply through forests to Ghasa, the last Thakali village and the Southern-most limit of Lama Buddhism. Soon after Ghasa, we enter the steepest and narrowest part of the gorge. At Dana, a Magar village, the large peak of Annapurna South (23,680ft.) can be seen across the valley. The trail then descends to Tatopani, where apple pie awaits and we can bathe in hot springs at the riverside.
Day 23: Tatopani to Ghorepani (2833m)
A short distance down stream from Tatopani, the trail crosses the river on a large suspension bridge, we leave the Kali Gandaki and begin the 5,000ft climb to the pass at Ghorepani. The trail climbs steeply for about 1300ft, and then becomes more gradual through Ghara and on to Sikha, both Magar villages. Continuing through rhododendron forests to the pass, where there are excellent views of Dhaulagiri (26,795ft), the Nilgiris (23,166ft), Annapurna I (26,545ft), Annapurna South (23,680ft), Hiunchuli (21,130ft) and Glacier Dome (23,191ft).
Day 24: Trek to the Road Head & Drive to Pokhara
Today, we make the walk up to the celebrated view point of Poon Hill (3195m), which overlooks the village. Dawn is the best time to go, so we arrange a wake up call at 5 am and head up the well marked track by torchlight.
The first light of dawn illuminates Dhaulagiri and Tukuche Peak with a surreal pink glow. You may be able to buy coffee and breakfast from an enterprising Nepali who has carried his produce up to Poon Hill to take advantage of the morning trade. Otherwise, we return to Ghorepani for breakfast.
At this point we are on the main Annapurna Circuit route and there are likely to be lots of travelers passing through this ridge-top settlement in both directions. Ghorepani literally means "horse water" and is a popular stopping place for the mule trains which ply the route from Pokhara to Jomsom and beyond.
After breakfast, we walk downhill for the first couple of hours to Ulleri, through dense forest, passing the occasional lodge in a clearing. Then a steep section, (with 3767 steps), leads down to Hille on the Bhurungdi Khola. A more level stretch, beside the river now, leads eventually to Birethanti.
After half an hour's walk from Birethanti we arrive at the road, and meet up with our transport for the hour long drive back to Pokhara and check into hotel.
Day 25: Fly to Kathmandu
From Pokhara you can either fly or drive to Kathmandu.
Day 26: Depart Kathmandu
Our Nepalese support team will take you to the airport for your flight home. |
